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Luang Prabang, Laos
Feb 11 - 18, 2003

Page 4

The next morning we wandered around the colorful market trying to soak up the last of our visit to charming Luang Prabang. We threw our packs on and then climbed into the back of a pickup truck taxi and headed to the airport for our short flight to Vientiane. We took off amidst skies boiling with juvenile thunderstorms. Shortly after takeoff we were glued to the airplane window. Trying to fill our eyes one last time with the golden temples surrounded by bright green jungle and the colonial architecture along the banks of the Thai-iced tea colored Mekong River. I supposed the kids we had met were having a nice swim under the hot sun.

Arriving in Vientiane as the red sun was setting on the horizon over the Mekong River in Vientiane, the heat seemed drier here. We spent an hour searching for a family owned guest house. As we didn’t want to be wandering around the streets of Vientiane with our packs on our backs at night we settled for a place. Hardly the worst, but barely acceptable by our short list of selection criteria: 1) no roaches 2) quiet 3) clean bedding 4) hot water. Later, in search of food, we stumbled across an over-priced western restaurant and treated ourselves to decent attempts at our favorite comfort foods.

The next day we rented bicycles to explore Vientiane. We pedaled along the streets of the city, sneaking peeks at everyday life in this slow paced capital of Laos. We stopped by schools and peered over the walls to watch school children at play and we parked our bikes to explore a few Buddhist temples after following novice monks into their compounds. At one point we stopped at a police station to watch in amazement as the police, wearing only shorts, played a version of volleyball unlike any we had ever seen. Two opposing teams of two barefooted men barely 5’4” tall kicked a wicker ball over the net to their opponents. The amazing part of this was they could actually jump up and “spike” the wicker ball down from above the net….with their feet! Bump with the head, set with a foot and spike with the foot over a net placed six inches above their heads. Impressive feat of acrobatics. It gave us a new respect for the local police. Note to self: no fighting with local police in Laos. As the sun was setting we passed by dozens of women gathered in a central square to perform aerobics. Not the tai-chi kind but full on jazzercise. The entire scene seemed out of place so we moved on and several minutes later we had parked our bikes and sat on the dusty river bank to watch the very red sun set over the Mekong River on our last day in Laos. A fitting end to our visit to this beautiful country.

Travel Tip: We were disappointed we didn't make it to Vang Vieng. For those considering a trip to Laos this is an up and coming adventure destination for caving, climbing and rafting.

Update: On February 22 we learned of another gun attack on a bus on the road to Vang Vieng and again in mid-April. For an intense story about a father and son caught in this violence on the same stretch of road in 1995 check out this story: www.dailyinfo.co.uk/polcaus/becvar.html

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