| |
With only a few months of travel under our belts we weren't
prepared to answer some of the questions about life on the
road sent to us via email from friends and family. But here
we with [253+85= 338] notches in our travel belts and a very
opinionated view of what it's like to travel abroad for so
long. Afterall, wisdom is the comb given to you after you've
lost all your hair.
| |
It all started as a
promise to Lisa written on the back of a receipt on
New Years Day 2001. "I will quit my job and travel
around the world with you" -Chris. It was the deal
closer to get her to marry me.
It took us 22 months to plan and prepare
and we deferred major life decisions like buying a house
and getting a dog. Inspired by our friends, Jen and
Mike, who did a similar trip, we quit our jobs, gave
away alot of our stuff, packed the rest in storage,
stayed with Chris' mom for a few months, gave our Jeep
to Lisa's mom and got on the plane.
We instinctively knew that the experience
would stretch our minds and change us in ways we could
never imagine. Research and planning alone was quite
an adventure. Strange looks from the staff at local
book stores as we digested tall stacks of travel books.
We bought a large map of the world and started putting
pins on the countries to which we wanted to travel.
Why did we decide to do it?
Read a book about adventure in Africa or taste the muddy
waters of the Zambezi River? Wonder why people in foreign
countries would choose to live in deplorable poverty
or witness first hand the consequences of a brutally
oppressive government? Wonder why the rainforests are
disappearing or go visit them before they are gone?
Quite honestly, Chris felt like
he was on the slow boat to corporate obscurity. While
the getting was good we had more than our fair share
of good fortune within the dotcom bubble. It was a case
of transitioning life events making it perfect timing
for us to pack up and hit the road. We're both wired
for adventure and, to us, this was the ultimate.
So we stopped dreaming about
it and did it.
|
|
| |
Oh
we missed the luxury of hotels. Rarely would we stay
in hotels (Asian cities being the exception but always
less than $25/night). Most of our time in "expensive"
developed countries (Aus, NZ, South Africa, Europe)
was accommodated in hostels or camping. We would have
missed out on having kangaroos scare the #$*% out of
us at 4:00 AM in Australia if we had not been sleeping
in our tent along side the road. Tent camping in Botswana
and Namibia pushed the limits of our comfort-zone at
times but it made the trip affordable.
|
|
| |
Round-the-world
airfare (limited to 16 stops and no more than 28,000
flight miles) cost us $3,100 each (including tax). It
took some serious shopping to find this. For our route
a Star-Alliance round-the-world ticket made the most
sense. But don't try to book it directly with the airlines.
www.circletheplanet.com had the best (by far) rates
for multiple-destination travel.
As for living expenses we found that
we could live quite comfortably with occasional splurges
on $3,000 a month in most developing countries. We passed
up adrenaline activities like bungy-jumping, skydiving
and expensive tours for more self-guided tours and local
bus journeys to save money.
Rarely did it make sense to camp in
developing countries, as accommodation could be found
for both of us for $6 - 18 a night. Africa was the exception,
where we made the best use of the travel dollar by joining
a participatory camping safari for three weeks. Europe,
New Zealand, and Australia were generally more expensive,
especially in big cities, and we found our expenses
to average around $4,000 per month.
We quickly learned to travel with young backpackers
to find the least expensive options. We didn't always
take the least expensive path but it was our baseline.
Cost of the entire trip?.......you
do the math.
|
|
| |
No
suitcases. Modern internal frame backpacks with most
of the load supported on the hips is what we used. A
duffle bag for overflow and a daypack for valuables.
After the first month of travel Chris' pack averaged
about 35 pounds and Lisa's pack weighed in at under
32 pounds.
We packed fewer clothes and did laundry
more often. We tried to wear things until they were
dirty sometimes for days on end. Our motto: wear it
out and then throw it out. Items unused for weeks at
a time were soon abandoned or mailed home on the slow
boat with souvenirs. Another critical lesson: In the
tropics, cotton is king and synthetics are dead weight.
But in New Zealand our fleece sweaters were our best
friends. Nothing escaped the jungle humidity and mildew
of Borneo so we returned to Bangkok to resupply on inexpensive
and less than name brand quality items after abandoning
many of our heavily worn out clothes.
Because we brought so few clothes
laundry day seemed to arrive two or three times a week.
Sometimes we sent it out and we were truly impressed
in Bali when our underwear returned to us ironed and
folded. Sometimes traveling with clothes for multiple
climates created problems. We learned the hard way not
to send out fleece items for laundering in tropical
climates. Few people see fleece in the tropics and it
melts when they try to do you a favor and iron it.
|
|
| |
Real
easily...We quit our jobs. Not only did it make it easier
to get on the plane to start our adventure but it opened
up our minds to how the other 99.999 % of the people
on this planet live. |
|
| |
In spite of what even we guessed
we found spending 24-7 together to work out well. Of
course we had quarrels and even the occasional meltdown
but we learned to draw the distinction between the other
person and the situation. We always reserved the right
to play the "alone-time" card but more often
than not we would crave sharing new experiences together
and found that we did not need much "alone-time".
Having the same interests and tolerances helped alot
and it hasn't been too difficult finding compromises.
Sometimes it was nice just to tag along and let the
person with the most interest in the place or site make
all the decisions. |
|
| |
Before
we left we heard it all. Someone's friend had a friend
who had been gassed on an overnight train, drugged in
a bar, mugged, or poisoned. We met lots of people on
the road who had one or two stories of misfortune but
most travelers wore their stories like merit badges
commanding awe and respect from fellow travelers.
Attack? Of course we were concerned.
We'd be fools not to be. But paranoia can cripple you.
Lisa's decision to dye her hair a darker color for travel
in Africa was motivated by a bit of fear, but Chris
goofed and did too good of a job leaving her hair jet
black. Was it really necessary? Tough to say. It certainly
helped, in some situations, diminish the amount of attention
she drew but there are less extreme ways of obtaining
the same result. In hindsight a headscarf or dark (not
light) hat probably would have been adequate. Sometimes
it just bought peace of mind. A few times we were fearful
of our safety: muslim extremists in Zanzibar, desperate
criminals in parts of Kenya and South Africa (not everywhere)
and of thugs on Lombok Island, Indonesia. Rarely was
it warranted and more often than not it was just our
imaginations. Only once were we verbally harassed for
being American. People were surprisingly helpful and
respectful and generally took no for an answer.
Injury? We were very afraid of some
of the aggressive animals we encountered in Kenya, the
Zambezi River in Zimbabwe, landmines in Laos and Cambodia
the possibility of an unexpected eruption of several
of the active volcanoes we were climbed and, of course,
the mosquitoes during the 140 days we traveled in malarial
areas.
Ripped-off? Valuables always
stayed with us. We bought clothes we wouldn't be heart-broken
for losing if our packs were lost or stolen. If we found
a clothing item we really liked along the road we bought
two and mailed one home. It immediately diminished the
fear of loss. We carried a throw-down wallet , a decoy
gladly given up during the unlikely event of being mugged.
Sometimes I carried two travel wallets (can't disclose
where the second was concealed) and were never stupid
enough to retrieve money from a money belt in public.
|
|
| |
Yes, but with some common sense and a killer first aid
kit our fear was minimized. We maintained a paranoia
about malaria but there's not much more you can do than
use a mossie net, repellent and anti-malarial medication.
SARS gave us quite a scare when Chris came down with
a fever in Viet Nam but it was most likely Dengue fever.
Lisa's recurring low grade stomach issues turned out
to be parasites but antibiotics cured that up. Chris
had a severe allergic reaction to bad fish in Indonesia.
We did our best to keep our hands clean and stay away
from bad food but sometimes you get sick anyways. We
frequently ate street vendor food because we could see
the ingredients before cooking and watched it being
prepared. It tended to be less expensive anyways. |
|
| |
Days on the road seemed to fall into one of four categories:
travel days, housekeeping and preparation days, activity
days and down-days.
The hours of a travel day were consumed
by packing up, transport to airports, rail stations,
and car rental places then the actual travel time followed
by local transport to accommodation and food. Much of
travel days are spent hurrying-up in order to wait,
especially airport days.
Arriving in new cities or countries
required that we relearn the basics. The first 48 hours
tended to be most stressful. We couldn't auto-pilot
to food, a bed or entertainment. We had to learn the
layout of areas and forage for our basic needs. After
the first ten countries we just started showing up in
the next country with only basic plans. In Zimbabwe
and Myanmar purchasing money on the black market took
several hours. We walked out of many restaurants and
onto the next in Vietnam after a peek into the kitchen.
But in Burma a huge plate of inexpensive fried rice
was rarely more than a ten minute bicycle ride away.
Preparation days included visits to
the market for food for an upcoming hike or overnight
trip, maybe a trip to a tour company office or a travel
agent to get advice. Preparing to transition climates
or big cultural shifts required several days of reprovisioning.
Most of our travel in Borneo involved a trip to the
market to purchase several days meal supplies for trips
into the National Parks. Car camping in New Zealand
required trips to the camping store for stove fuel and
a weeks supply of food.
Activities required that we be separated
from valuables and we would have to make arrangements
for their safekeeping. Activity days were usually planned
well in advance with least expensive options identified
and a plan of attack. We rented a motorbike, packed
snacks and sent laundry to be done in advance so we
could spend the next three days from predawn to well
after dark exploring the Lost City of Angkor in Cambodia.
Activity days were pure action with little distraction
from the task at hand like rafting the Zambezi, tracking
lions, caving, exploring ruins, climbing volcanos, jungle
trekking, mountain hiking, and scuba diving.
Even down days where the plan was
to just wander around aimlessly or purposely get lost
had their challenges. Things we take for granted at
home sometimes take 3-4 times as long to do in a foreign
city/country. A trip to the fridge takes 10 seconds
at home. Sometimes the restaurant selection process
could take an hour or more not including travel time.
Upon Lisa's return from a peek into many kitchens she'd
deliver a stern, "We're Outta Here!"
There really is nothing typical about
a typical day on the road and you never know when things
will turn atypical on you. This is what truly makes
it an adventure. Sometimes after a pleasant day of no
surprises we would lower our heads onto our pillows
just in time to hear the guy in the next room snoring
so loud it would shake the thin guesthouse walls. Even
worse, when we shared rooms with travelers the snorer
might be in one of the bunks next to us. Surprises became
the norm and we caught what sleep we could and hoped
that the next day would be a little more gentle on us.
Of course this an over simplification
of typical days.
|
|
| |
Three immediate things come to mind. We learned to ask
better questions and that the quality of your adventure
is directly proportionate to the quality of questions
you ask, both in planning and execution. Secondly, we
learned to live with less...a lot less. It remains to
be seen how this will affect the way we live upon our
return home. Third, we learned to better evaluate and
take risks. In all, we won't really see the big picture
until years after we've returned home and have the benefit
of hindsight. The eyes through which we view the world
have changed but not until we view things familiar and
common will we truly see how our attitudes, values and
opinions have changed.
We have learned to "go with the
flow". By not planning too much we found that we
were rarely disappointed when things didn't go "our
way" because we hadn't defined "our way".
It seems obvious but we had never really "lived"
it to the degree of traveling to a foreign country with
very different customs with no real plan. Just show
up and see what happens. |
|
| |
Oh you betcha! At times it was downright painful. A
combination of factors made it painful at times. 1)
Not feeling well 2) A long bus or plane ride 3) Being
bored out of our minds and having too much time to think
about our "old" lives. Sometimes we'd torture
each other by playing this game we called "the
food game". As we'd be hiking through the humid
jungles of Borneo, stopping to pick off the leaches
every few km, one of us would start naming off favorite
restaurants and foods to the other. "Taco Delight
at Taco Bravo, smoked turkey crepe at Sweat Peas, steerburger
at Burger Pit, or french onion soup at Perry's. Of course
we only had ramen noodles and nuts to eat. It was so
cruel especially when the other person was hungry. When
camping and with little night entertainment we would
think about home quite a bit or rehash the same stories
about friends and family. Homesickness had a weird way
of sneaking up on us. When hiking in the rain in New
Zealand the muddy puddles in the forest looked like
bowls of raisin bran soggy with milk and this would
make us think about and miss home. The mind is a strange
powerful thing. The most frustrating part of the trip
was getting excited about starting a project at home
but not being able to do anything about it on the road.
Homesickness usually faded within a few days or was
pushed out of our minds by activities. |
|
| |
Chris
- Ear plugs
Lisa - Good hair conditioner, sun
block, facial cleanser...just your basic products you
use everyday. They can be hard to find so when you have
them, they are like gold!
|
|
| |
That's
a tough one. I know its sounds cliche but some things
just cannot be compared.
Rafting the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe and volunteering
with Earthwatch in Kenya were tops in Africa. Exploring
the lost Khmer civilization and ruins of Angkor Wat
and the hundreds of temples of Bagan, Burma were tops
for Southeast Asia. Bali and traveling by boat to islands
in East Indonesia along with our visit to the jungles
of Borneo were tops for that part of the planet. Trekking
in the mountains of New Zealand and scuba diving the
Great Barrier Reef were very impressive and memorable.
The best experience was the entire adventure, including
the adversity and being able to share it with my beautiful
wife and best friend, Lisa.
|
|
| |
Without hesitation: Exploring the lost civilization
of Angkor Wat in Cambodia was by far, second to none,
the most impressive, awe inspiring, mind bending, adventure.
Other top contenders: Bagan, Burma and Gunung Mulu,
Borneo. Six hours and eight kilometers of caving in
Gunung Mulu National Park is Sarawak, Borneo. Watching
the blood red sunsets for five nights from atop temples
sprinkled across the plains of Bagan, Burma.
Read More about
our favorite places
|
|
Back to the Trip
Reflections Story List
|
|