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Needing some much need R&R,
we headed to the island of Zanzibar, located off the coast
of Tanzania. We decided to spend a couple of nights in Stone
Town and then head to the beaches. We heard from some travelers
the Stone Town was an old town with lots of character and
interesting arab architecture. We were disappointed when we
arrived in Stone Town...much of the city was in ruins and
decay along with a very poor population that lived there.
We didn't feel safe walking the streets after dark and didn't
see many other tourist about the town. Zanzibar is a Muslim
island and we were visiting in the middle of the Islamic holy
month of "Ramadan". For an entire month the Muslim
population fasts from sunrise to sunset (roughly 6:30 am to
6:30 pm). There weren't many restaurants open and we felt
uneasy eating in front of people. There were mosques every
couple of block and they blasted prayers on loud speakers
throughout the town. This wouldn't of made us feel so uneasy
if September 11th had never happened, but it did. We were
Americans trying to blend into an extremely dark skinned religious
community...this wasn't my idea of getting some R&R. So
we decide to cut our trip in Stone Town short and head to
a beach town on the northern side of the island called Nangwi.
We took an early morning van and as soon as we left the city
and got out on the palm tree lined roads we felt instantly
better. Stone town wasn't a bad place, it just wasn't what
we expected or what we wanted at that moment. We wanted to
relax on the beach and let our guard down, instead we were
on full alert worrying about our safety and offending Muslims
by dressing inappropriately or by eating in front of them.
We stayed at a small resort that had a restaurant
that was open and made us what ever our hearts desired. Of
course we couldn't eat any fresh vegetables or fruit that
wasn't peeled! We splurged on a room that had air conditioning
which was much needed since it got really hot and humid there
during the day(about 86* F and high humidity). We spent most
of our time laying in the sun, swimming in the aqua colored
water and walking on the white powdery sand beaches. There
were other tourist and it was generally acceptable to wear
shorts, a tank top or swim suit. We were in heaven because
the town was very small and underdeveloped so it was very
tropical and authentic fishing town. It wasn't an over-developed
beach town with huge hotels and lots of tourist...there were
just enough that we felt safe.
We found this amazing bar just a short walk
down from us on the beach. The bar looked like something out
of a surfer movie or on the cover of a Jimmy Buffet album
cover. The bar tops and table were made from sun bleached
wooden boats turned up side down with wooden pier stumps for
seats. There were no walls to the bar it was open except for
the palm and banana trees all along the sides of the bar.
The floor was just the sand on the beach, the bar was only
about 10 feet away from the high tide mark of the ocean. I
guess there wasn't much of a threat of waves since the shores
are calm. They are protected by a reef that is about a quarter
mile off the shore.
The bar had a shipped wrecked feel with
hammocks hanging everywhere. Some were filled with empty liquor
bottles and some were empty to lie in if you wanted. There
were fresh pineapples and bananas suspended from the ceiling
ready to be wiped up in a frozen drink if your desired. Yes,
they had a blender, totally contradictory to the atmosphere
of being shipped wrecked they had some electrical devices.
A frig, blender and a computer which was hooked up to a well
placed sound system that played some funky techno music. White
candles were placed randomly around the bar and was the only
light source except for the warm glow of a bonfire lit every
night between the bar and the water. The scene from a distance,
bathed in moonlight, was very enchanting and welcoming, and
the music made it all the more inviting.
We wished we could of shared this
experience with our friends. We started day dreaming of all
of you like a mirage....we saw Sepe playing the bongs and
Stephanie dancing to the beat. Radhi asking what kind of music
they were play and searching there database for her favorite
tune. Jessica and Kristen dancing on the bar. Luci, Lea, Leal,
Brett and Kristi dancing on the sand dance floor. Doug, Kevin,
Chuck and Hundley running around in grass skirts or even less!
Of course, the Magic Wanda and Butter would want to play a
song but with no instruments would just settle for dancing
and having a good time! This made us smile and it was almost
like our friends were there with us.
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